Woven In Blood and Earth, 2024

Inspiration & Context


Rita Renata’s 7th Birthday, 17 July, 2002.
Photograph from my Mother’s family archive.

Hand sewn Kalocsa embroidery by my Mother. 52 x 35 cm
Inspired by a sculpture seminar on personal vernacular, this work serves as both a tribute and an emotional embodiment of my mother and ancestors. It draws from my mother’s collection of Kalocsa embroidered pieces, which were integral to my upbringing. Viewing these pieces as metaphorical remnants of my personal history, I was interested in examining their material histories as transgenerational heritage exploring, how these remnants can contribute to healing from the impacts of trauma and conflict, particularly in the face of migration and displacement.





Benchmarking Research


The People’s Art



Kalocsa embroidery, a distinctive Hungarian art form, exemplifies the intersection of cultural heritage and transformation. While rooted in Hungary, its motifs and techniques have evolved, reflecting a nature-centred philosophy and a generational exchange of knowledge. This embroidery is not merely decorative but a direct participant in history, embodying the voices and traditions of working-class people, historically referred to as ‘people's art’ in Hungary (Hofner and Fel, 1979).

As Szalavary (1980) observes, embroidery designs were traditionally passed from mother to daughter, each generation adding personal touches, renewing cultural heritage without replicating it. Originally characterized by white floral motifs, the industrial revolution introduced vibrant colours, transforming the art while maintaining its essence. Yet, this transformation wasn’t without consequence. As embroidery became a commodity for the elite, its creators earned minimal wages, and with globalization, it was abandoned for Western fashions like denim. However, it remains an emotional tribute to the people who preserved its essence.

For me, Kalocsa embroidery represents a memory of safety and serves as a tribute to my mother, grandmother and ancestors. It embodies resilience, bridging past and present, and acts as a lens for understanding the complexities and healing power of cultural inheritance. In my research, I aim to transpose memories of safety from our working-class home into the gallery space, examining their healing potential in addressing the complex longing and confusion I experience in the face of migration.




Practitioner Research


Craft & Vernacular in the Gallery


Fig1: Jeffrey Gibson - The Space in Which to Place Me, 2024. US Pavilion, 60th Venice Biennale, Italy. Ceramic, glass beads, nylon fringe, canvas, cooed-rolled mild steel, steel plate. 274.3 x 106.7 x 106. 7 cm
Fig2: Yinka Shonibare CBE - The War Library, 2024, Serpentine South Gallery, London. Installation view. 5, 270 books bound in Dutch wax print cotton. Dimensions variable.
Fig3: Red Hong Yi - My Alleyway Memories (Once Upon A Longtang), 2023. National Art Gallery, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Mixed-media installation, dimensions variable. Gallery view.

Fig4: Aziza Kadyri - Don’t Miss The Cue, 2024. Uzbekistan Pavilion, 60th Venice Biennale, Italy. Installation view. Dimensions variable.
Fig5: Mona Hatoum - Twelve Windows, 2012-13. 12 pieces of Palestinian embroidery on fabric, wooden clothes-pegs, and steel cable. Museum of Fine Arts Houston. Installation view. Dimensions variable.
Fig6: Igshaan Adams - Vroegeling by die Voordeur (early light by the front door), 2020, beads, cotton twine, wire, turmeric tea, fabric dye. 226 x is 190 cm. Collection Betg Rudin DeWoody.


I am interested in the work of contemporary practitioners, who explore the interconnectedness of personal, political, and economic vernaculars, recognizing material histories as powerful tools for cultural survival, innovation, and healing from the impacts of trauma and conflict. Through the synthesis of media and concepts within their specific histories and contexts, these artists create multidimensional atmospheres within the gallery setting, that invite audiences to step into the shoes of those who have experienced, and continue to experience social, political and economic injustices.

For instance Fig1. uses materials often dismissed as craft to monumentalise people and stories that have historically been ignored, celebrating individuals and communities who preserved their dignity and traditions in impossible circumstances (Gibson, 2024). Fig2. explores the history of war and peace through 5,270 books bound in Dutch wax batik, raising questions about human memory and amnesia, asking whether we truly learn from our conflicts and treaties, or we simply continue to repeat the same catastrophe (Serpentine, 2024). Fig3. utilises old clothing, bamboo poles and red calligraphy paper to address themes of impermanence, tradition and urbanization. Drawing on personal archive photos, it reflects the complex longing and confusion of the artist in the face of migration (Yi, 2023).

Fig4. incorporates blue patchwork curtains, subtly depicting the artist’s former family house, resembling a neural network retrieving data from a collective knowledge pool to fill in memory gaps amid confusion. This piece seek to gradually clarify, challenging viewers to engage in a space where their presence fluctuates, reflecting the experiences of migrants who face the discomfort of inhabiting both the roles of the observed and the observer simultaneously (Kadyri, 2024). Fig5. features twelve Palestinian embroidery on fabric, representing a key region of Palestine combined with steel cable, inviting visitors to navigate through physical and mental barriers. This work evokes the challenges faced by countless people around the world (MFAH, 2024). Fig6. employs beads, cotton twine, turmeric tea and fabric dye to create ‘desired lines’ a makeshift pathway linking Cape Town suburbs to townships established under the Group Areas Act of 1961 for coloured communities forcibly removed from the city (Marill and Hunegs, 2022). By transposing working-class homes into the gallery space, the work evokes the transcendent in the everyday, recalling the movement of bodies over time. It offers a remembered presence in absence, subtly reflecting the history of people on the move, and those denied the right to move.





Practitioner Research


Plates — Ceramics



Photo of Mother’s Kalocsa embroidered tablecloth

Trace on paper. 10 x 5 cm

Trace on carbon paper. 10 x 5 cm

Trace on my kitchenware. 10 x 5 cm


Watercolour painting on my kitchenware. 10 x 5 cm

Watercolour painting on my kitchenware. 10 x 5 cm

Digital retrace in Illustrator software. 10 x 5 cm

Digital retrace in Illustrator software. 10 x 5 cm


This was my first experience with ceramics, and I was captivated by the transformation of clay, which mirrors the cycle of life and aligns with my practice exploring resilience, renewal, and our connection to nature. In our community, ceramics symbolize cultural preservation and ancestral traditions. Inspired by a tablecloth embroidery sent by my mother, representing her motherhood and my beginnings, I retraced its motif onto ceramics using pencil, watercolours, and digital tools. This process allowed me to honour my heritage while crafting a narrative that combines personal history with my own voice, supported by the resources of my MA program.






Embroidery tests - hand & digital


Test No.1


Kalocsa inspired hand-embroidery. 1 x 10.5 cm






Test No.2

Kalocsa inspired hand-embroidery. 1 x 15 cm





Test No.3

Kalocsa inspired digital embroidery. 10 x 15 cm




Test No.4

Kalocsa inspired digital embroidery. 40 x 40 cm







Machine sewing embroidery samples


Kalocsa design digitised and turned into data




Digital embroidery machine embroidering Material Test No.4

Embroidery tests – hand and digital



Hand embroidery. 25 x 35 cm

Hand embroidery. 15 x 30 cm

Digital embroidery. 25 x 37 cm

Digital embroidery. 45 x 47 cm



I conducted embroidery experiments to create personal narratives using symbolic flower motifs. In Test No1., I celebrated my grandmother’s life and her legacy as the foundation for the ten lives that followed. Roses symbolized women, rosebuds their children, and forget-me-nots conveyed deep respect and appreciation. Test No2. celebrated my relationship with my mother, her ‘only rosebud’, born when Margaritas bloom. These works allowed me to express emotions beyond words and translate my designs into a tangible, 3D material form.

I also explored digital embroidery, which fascinated me with its precision and efficiency. The process of separating designs into colour plates and translating data into material reality highlights the blend of traditional craft with advanced technology. While hand embroidery took weeks and carried the traces of my labour, digital embroidery completed the same work in a fraction of the time, removing physical traces of human effort, yet retaining the data I input. This contrast inspires me to, perhaps next, create a harmonious interplay between hand and digital techniques, combining tradition with innovation.

An intriguing discovery was the ‘punched memories’ left by the needle when threads were removed—marks of interaction without the thread itself. This idea holds potential for further exploration. Future experiments could also examine the effects of mechanization and digitalization on indigenous practices, possibly through a feminist lens. While these experiments explore themes like tradition, mechanization, and transformation, I need to refine the conceptual framework. For example, do I want to explore feminist perspectives, and if so, which specific frameworks will I engage with?

These early experiments highlight the potential of Kalocsa motifs and the mysterious, transcendent qualities of observation of the natural world, which, as Stevens (1999) notes, ‘can trigger a quantum leap of inspiration to something more fantastic’. However, refining my approach, addressing technical gaps, and defining the conceptual focus—such as whether to integrate a feminist lens—will be essential to unlocking the full potential of this body of work.





Plates - layered memories



Plate casts of different sizes.
Embedded pattern prepared for mould- casting.
Ready plate moulds. Dimensions variable.
Digital Kalocsa motif design in Illustrator.

Digital Kalocsa motif design in Illustrator.
Configurations design in Illustrator.
Configurations design in Illustrator.



Press moulded white stoneware clay plates.

Soft-clay state medium plate.

Refined edge, bone-dry medium plate.

Bone-dry plants ready for firing.


Fired medium plates.

Applying white glaze to plates.

Glazed, fired plate collection.

Decal process of Kalocsa pattern transfer.




As I transformed soft white stoneware clay into plates, I experimented with how the material holds memory – patterns in the mould, the imprint of my touches – and observed its changes in texture, rigidity, colour and finish throughout the process. This journey raised questions for me: are we the embodiment of our multi-layered, impermanent memories? Are memories remnants of our existence?

My exploration extended into the digital space, merging the magical and scientific realms for artistic expression on screen. Ideas moved fluidly – from embroidery to photograph, to my computer screen, and then to ceramics, creating hybrid structures that embody memories interwoven with blood and earth. These imperfect, wobbly creations represent not only my personal history but also the distilled essence of many generations, capturing the complexity of identity and the enduring traces of being.


Outcomes - Plates




Large Kalocsa plates. 25 x 25 cm


Medium Kalocsa plates. 15 x 15 cm


Small Kalocsa plates. 9 x 9 cm




Installation / Group crit.



Fig7: Woven In Blood and Earth, Part I, 2024, Ceramics (30 white stoneware clay Kalocsa plates) Dimensions variable. A to B Gallery - Camberwell. Installation view.
Fig8: Woven In Blood and Earth, Part I, 2024, Ceramics (30 white stoneware clay Kalocsa plates) Dimensions variable. A to B Gallery - Camberwell. Close-up.




Fig9: Woven In Blood and Earth, Part I & II, 2024, Ceramics, Digital and Hand embroidery. Dimensions variable. A to B Gallery - Camberwell. Installation view.
Fig10: Woven In Blood and Earth, Part I & II, 2024, Ceramics, Digital and Hand embroidery. Dimensions variable. A to B Gallery - Camberwell. Installation view.





I received feedback suggesting that I need to ground my focus within this experiment to avoid becoming too introspective, and I agree. The feedback also highlighted the strengths of the ghostly traces left by the embroidery rings on the materials and the unique imperfections of the plates, each with its own character.

During this unit, I haven’t yet found a focused area or medium for my Kalocsa experiments. I see these works more as experiments, prototypes and tests rather than resolved outcomes. In the next unit, I plan to narrow my focus and drawing from these experiments, works towards developing more refined and resolved concepts and outcomes.




Bibliography

Jeffey Gibson: The Space in which to Place Me. Available at: https://www.jeffreygibsonvenice2024.org (Accessed: 19 October 2024).

Hofner, T. and Fel, E. (1979) ‘Distinctive Features of Hungarian Folk Art’ Hungarian Folk Art. Oxford University Press. pp. 55-61.

Kadyri, A. (2024) Don’t Miss The Cue. Available at: https://www.azizakadyri.com/dont-miss-the-cue-uzbekistan-pavillion-venice-biennale1 (Accessed: 19 October 2024).

Marill, R and Hunegs, S. (eds.) (2022) Prime: Art’s Next Generation: Igshaan Adams. London: Phaidon Press Ltd.

MFAH (2024) Mona Hatoum: Twelwe Windows. Available at: https://www.mfah.org/press/mona-hatoum-twelve-windows (Accessed: 29 October 2024).

Serpentine (2024) Yinka Shoniare CBE: Suspended States. Available at: https://www.serpentinegalleries.org/whats-on/yinka-shonibare-cbe-suspended-states/

(Accessed: 19 October 2024).

Stevens, H.M. (1999) The myth and magic of embroidery. Newton Abbot: David & Charles. pp. 11-19.

Szalavary, A. (1980) Hungarian folk designs: for embroiderers and craftsmen. New York: Dover Publications Inc.

Yi, R. H. (2023) My Alleyway Memories (Once Upon A Longtang). Available at: https://www.redhongyi.com/blank-1 (Accessed: 19 October 2024).